So you have been walking for three days, and you realize the hardest part of your trek is still yet to come. The town of Chugchilan is quite small with no restaurants, and the hiking crew that has become your new family wants to party. You just don’t have it in you, you politely decline the invitation to rack up with the crew, but where do you go? If this sounds familiar, we would recommend you check out Hostal El Vaquero.
The Property
While potentially the smallest town we have encountered in Ecuador, amazingly there are 4 hostals to choose from in the area. While the other 3 are mentioned in Lonely Planet, we don’t think you should overlook this up and comer rated a 9.8 on booking.com! The quiet retreat of El Vaquero is conveniently located at the head of the trail for day 4 of the loop to Quilotoa. This also means you have to walk about ten additional minutes on your third day of hiking…but it’ll be worth the effort! This family owned hostal is full of rustic charm, not to mention that it has the best view in the entire town! Its the perfect getaway for those travelers who are looking for a peaceful place to relax and unwind from the a hard days trek.
While the front may not get your attention right away, as you explore the sprawling property you will realize just how much it has to offer. Hammocks, swings, and craftily made tire chairs are found all around the beautifully landscaped grounds. This makes finding a place to relax outside your room a piece of cake! When you enter the main building you will encounter the wine and beer bar, as well as the dining room and cozy lounge room with a fire place. In the back corner there is also a sun room with a breathtaking vista of the valley behind the property. The dining area is quaintly decorated and also offers, in our opinion, the best food in town. A sizable three-course meal is included at both dinner and breakfast. Our favorites were the delicious cheese soup and the local chicken dish. One thing is for sure…you will be completely fueled up for your final trek to quilotoa!
The Rooms
The rooms are cozy and well prepared for the cold valley nights. You will find a splendid treat when you get into bed and notice the fleece comforters to match the fleece bed spread and sheets. As our trekking friends said the next morning, it was like sleeping in a bed of pajamas! As is always an important question in South America, the showers were hot and lasted the entirety of the shower. The rooms also face the valley in the back and we were able to get an awesome time lapse of the clouds rolling through at sunrise from our window sill. (Click image link below to view timelapse)
New Amenities-Coming Soon!
While the hostel is already an oasis in an otherwise bereft area, the additions they are working to finish will only make it better! As of writing this, Victor, the owner, was nearly finished building a new indoor pool and spa at the far end of this sprawling property. This two-story building includes the pool and a sauna room on the first floor as well as two separate massage rooms on the second floor. With windows wrapping all the way around the building, it is sure to be an epic place of serenity, once completed. If all goes according to plan, this new addition will be ready to go by the end of January (2018).
Why We Chose El Vaquero
While you have to look for it, and trek a bit further (past the main square and church on your left, head down the first paved road on your left and go up the dirt path) it is well worth continuing your trek past the first hostals you come across to reach El Vaquero. Cloud Forest seems to be the hostal guidebooks recommend most, but we did not found it to look quite cramped and not nearly as visually appealing as El Vaquero. Black Sheep is the other popular option, but Vaquero gives you the exquisite view AND is kind to your budget with dorms at $15pp and privates for$20pp. You can find Vaquero on booking.com or just show up and Victor and his family will be sure to get you settled into a room!
–>If you get lost just keep following the signs for the Quilotoa loop as the Vaquero property sits on the edge of the valley at the trail head. You’ll be happy you traveled a bit longer to reach this little slice of serenity!
